|
Interview with Norah Gaughan, Designer for Berroco
Norah Gaughan of Berroco is one of the most popular and respected designers in the industry. She is author of several best-selling pattern books, and is revered for her clever geometrics and designs inspired by nature. She hosts her own blog and along with her mentor, Margery Winter produces multi-media presentations available on the Berroco website.
Knitch: Norah, first of all, thank you so much for taking time to speak with us. Although you started knitting quite young, you came to the knitting industry through a circuitous route. Can you tell us more about it?
Norah: My grandmother taught me how to crochet when I was 9 or 10, which probably formed a great foundation for learning how to knit a few years later. A family–like friend, Grace Judson, taught me how to knit the summer I was 14. (A few years ago Grace was named the fastest knitter in the US by XRX). I had my first piece published in 1978 or 79, when I was still in high school. Entering Brown, I had no intention of making knitting, or any art, my career. My parents were both professional illustrators and I certainly couldn’t compete with my very talented Dad in that regard. Besides, I was good at science and girls who where good at science were being encouraged to pursue that interest. Freshman year I thought I would be studying biophysics and music and then, coming around a bit to my roots, I eventually graduated with a double degree - Biology / Art.
Knitch: Scientists and mathematicians are considered to be among the most creative people in the world, so that makes great sense. You’ve been Design Director at Berroco for a few years now. How have you influenced their direction?
Norah: My coming to Berroco coincided beautifully with the market’s swing back to classic yarns and classic yarns are my thing.
Knitch: You are a renowned pattern designer with several successful books. Can you tell us about your newest patterns for Autumn/Winter 2008/9?
Norah: I honestly really love the patterns we did as a team for the Berroco fall season and NGV3 is my favorite so far. I am proud of it. I divided the book into two stories. The items in the first half were highly influenced by gothic revival architecture some more literally than others. Swooping cables look like trusses or buttresses' and other surface decoration references architectural ornament. I had fun naming each piece accordingly after 19th century architects and their buildings. I was thinking more about modern art, and specifically sculpture when I designed the second half of the book. Cables are chiseled, textures form a collage, and a pixelated portrait of a cable is a visual pun I just love.
Knitch: Your Prospera pattern, which we’re presenting in this issue, has that gothic architectural look. Where else do you look for inspiration?
Norah: I like to be tied into what's happening in fashion and influenced by science, nature and other arts as well. I can be influenced by almost anything I see and like. I am very pliable.
Knitch: Do you have any particular goals when developing a design?
Norah: I want to design a pretty sweater knitter's will want to wear and it is a big plus for me when I get to do something new, something clever.
Knitch: What has been your most popular design to date? Why do you think knitters responded to it so well?
Norah: The Tilted Duster from Interweave Knits is probably my most popular sweater to date, but I predict Eastlake from NGV3 is going to rival it. It's been a few months since the book's been out and Eastlake is already in hundreds of queues on Ravelry. Maybe they are popular because they are wearable, have a little something to think about as you knit, but not too much and both are a little "different".
Knitch: Outside of the knitting community, who do you admire most?
Norah: Right now I am totally digging Benoît Mandelbrot. I get the feeling he did what he was interested in, and now it has influenced artists and mathematicians alike. His work has changed how math is taught around the world. I just read an interview of him in Seed magazine. He seems very down to earth.
Knitch: Great magazine, isn’t it? Challenging for those of us who don’t have biology or physics degrees, but a great source of information about what’s happening in the world of science. Before we end, can you tell us what you foresee for fashion in the future?
Norah: As I see it, fashion is constantly fluctuating between reacting to new materials and to the new needs of society while harkening back to 20-30 years for nostalgic inspiration. That theory in mind, our changing environment will prove to be the greatest influence of fashion in the future. What fibers will keep us comfortable? Which materials are the least energy intensive to produce? What can the rich afford that the middle class cannot, but would like to emulate?
Knitch: Those are great considerations right now. Very relevant. Is there anything else you’d like to tell us about yourself?
Norah: I am all talked out, for now. I should remind you to check out my blog.
Knitch: It’s great that you put the initial sketches up there and show us your work as it progresses. It’s almost as if we’re part of the process. Thanks so much for your time. We look forward to watching your new designs emerge on the blog.
Photograph of Norah taken by: Kiriko Shirobayashi |
Winter 2008/09 
